The 2023-2024 collections of Paris Fashion Week illustrate the development of men’s fashion. In full evolution, this sector offers a particularly interesting field of expression for the big houses. Men are indeed claiming a total freedom of dress and men’s lines now have more dedicated shows. So how can we explain this craze?
Many ready-to-wear brands have presented men’s collections for Fashion Week 2023-2024, like Saint Laurent. The house of the Kering group had not offered men’s fashion shows since 2016, when Anthony Vaccarello took over as artistic director. Today, Saint Laurent, like Givenchy or Gucci, works almost more with its men’s lines than its women’s, according to Alice Feillard, director of men’s offer and purchase at Galeries Lafayette. Brands therefore have a major interest in focusing on their men’s collections. This dynamic is also felt in the lingerie market with 3.3% growth over the first ten months of 2022, compared to 2.5% for women’s lingerie.
The blossoming of men’s fashion is a real space for artistic expression for designers. Men are taking ownership of fashion, a reflection of their appearance and their sensibility. This movement seems to accompany the liberation of women. This is evidenced by the emergence of fashion blogs run by men. Women are also taking over men’s fashion, like the designers Wales Bonner and Emily Bode who have joined the ranks of men’s designers. Their feminine look allows them to question gender stereotypes to propose pieces more adapted to modern codes.
If fashion reflects an era, Fashion Week 2023-2024 marks the rise of men’s collections with men’s fashion under the spotlight; image of a changing society, eager to break with traditional codes.
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